I use Liquid cooling. Its much mroe efficient. But if you get a leak they only repair a few of the damaged parts. So like on mine I also have a caseing system for if it leaks It wont dmage anytyhing.
It costs more, but if you cant arrofd the caseing and are worried about leaks dont get it.

Whats the unit that you use? Do you have it installed on your video card too?

No the vid card is normal fan. Cooling goes to everything else.
I use the Aqaurius III system with custom Caseing from Aqaurius

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Yes if you have very high-end hardware and/or are into serious overclocking.

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Nope. A leak would be unlikely if you get good parts. If it does occur, 90% it's because of mistakes in installation.

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Definitely. You have to remove the stock fan to fix on the waterblock, and that voids the warranty.

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Most people still use fans because they don't watercool their HDDs and graphics memory. I'm not sure, but I doubt people w/c their RAM either...

Not a fan of liquid cooling

what are the specs for your killer rig? use liquid cooling if you think your going to over clock it like no 2morrow.

if you have 2 7800's in SLI, that would be a great.

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Well right now I'm going to settle for a cheaper ($1000-$1500 USD) pre-built system, but eventually I want to go all out (around $2500-$3000 USD) on a custom built system.

Specs of expensive computer-

Athlon64 X2 4800 Dual-Core CPU
Dual Geforce 7800 GTX's
2 gigs Corsair low latency DDR400 PC3200 RAM
2x500gb SATA 2 HDD

I don't really have it all worked out yet, but those are the general things. Right now I just want a computer that can play the newer games on, and a $1000 system will suffice, but in a couple of years from now I want something alot better. I understand that those componants I listed will probably be outdated in a couple of years, I just listed them as reference points, I will definitaly buy the newer ones when I go to build my system.

[This message has been edited by bstoned (edited 11-27-2005 @ 07:30 PM).]

I was thinking about getting a colling system aswell. I plan on buying a see through case in a few weeks.

Mostly because my gfriend has show his crap of too much so im getting a see through case and all that neon crap to go with it. So i was thinkin luquid cooling would be so cool.

I might plan on overclocking if i had a hells idea what is was i know it speeds up your computer but weather its a lot or little i dont know.

So is it worth it getting it to make ure PC look cool? I want my PC looking cool lol

check out the wikipedia for liquid cooling for a computer

you can fine some nice info there....

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It depends how much you overclock it. My processor is overclocked from 2.0 GHz to 2.2 GHz (I know, looks bad, right? Well, keep in mind it's an AMD X2 ), and it did make a noticable difference, albeit not a WORLD of difference, though.

Also, I'm against watercooling. Eventually, it WILL leak. It may take a day or it may take 20 years. Closed systems under pressure have a habit of doing that. I don't want to take the risk of an expensive piece of electronics being destroyed with a single droplet of water. Use fans unless your internal case temp is, like, 130F or something.

[This message has been edited by Crazed Ewok (edited 12-01-2005 @ 12:42 PM).]

yeap more fans (quiet ones), and bigger more better heatsinks.

my heatsink is aluminium but copper ones are best, don't know if they come standard now with pre built systems or a CPU package.

might wanna check that out when you buy parts.

Heat sink? Be what?

The thing is i don't know what over clocking is how you do it and what it does so i wont be doing that.

And ill be buying an AMD atholon duel core mother board bundle

And a clear case. I want it all to be about style and practability if ya get me lol. So what looks cool buy stays cool?

Overclocking is achieved by increasing voltages to your FSB, or directly to your CPU. In the BIOS, the FSB will usually start at 200MHz. It will also list a CPU Multiplier. That number times the FSB is how many MHZ your CPU will run at. (200MHz x 10 = 2000MHz) So, if you incrementally increase the FSB speed, maybe at 5 MHz a time, you could easily get it to something like this: (220 x 10 = 2200MHz)

If you want a clear case to look cool, get the improved ATAPI and floppy cables. (like this: click)

You could also buy sticks of LED lights, or lighted LED fans. I personally hate them, but if you want them, there's tons of places to get them.

[This message has been edited by Crazed Ewok (edited 12-02-2005 @ 01:47 PM).]

You want UV-reactive stuff from AC Ryan. Great stuff.

Yeh right... liquid cool your Intel Celeron 1.2GHz I bet.

But get some anti algea stuff... thats all I know.. stops algea build up inside.

Duan Xuan pretty much covered the essentials in his first post, but I'll add a little to the end. The only way I install a water-cooled system is to go 100% water... that means no rotating fans in the case, none at all. If you are going to do it, do it all the way (totem via!) or not at all (my philosophy). There are several main reasons for this, beyond the obvious:

1. Fans make noise.
2. Fans move air, air contains dust/filth.
3. Fans fail. #2 tries hard to hasten it.
4. PCs can be broken when doing required cleaning, esp. in dusty environments.

To do a water-cooled system, use a WC or external PS, cool the CPU, Northbridge, Graphics card(s), and HDs (you are probably not WCing a dog slow system, so you better have a fast, hot HD ). If you are using HP RAM (few do), then cool it (that RAM likely costs more than the whole WC parts pile).

It is not a worry about leaking systems, if you assemble & take care of them properly.

All that said, I actually don't recommend WC for most gamers, for several reasons:

1. Most don't have $300-$400 to spare.
2. If #1 were true, then upgrading to the FX-57 or top flite video card would be a better choice.
3. The WC system is heavy/bulky, and a pain to move. Many times, the WC unit is separate from case... or else it is a custom, heavy case.
4. WC systems do require a certain amount of extra care when working on them.
5. If you are inexperienced, removing heatsinks from the Northbridge and Graphics Cards can be hazardous to the health of the hardware!
6. Upgrades and system parts swaps are more difficult in many cases (no punn intended ).

BTW, with the right air cooler, you can OC as much as most water systems... depending on ambient conditions. Its just a matter of thermodynamics, heat transfer in particular. I guess I should admit to getting a C in Dr. Lou's Heat Transfer engineering class, though .

Duan Xuan pretty much covered the essentials in his first post, but I'll add a little to the end. The only way I install a water-cooled system is to go 100% water... that means no rotating fans in the case, none at all. If you are going to do it, do it all the way (totem via!) or not at all (my philosophy). There are several main reasons for this, beyond the obvious:

1. Fans make noise.
2. Fans move air, air contains dust/filth.
3. Fans fail. #2 tries hard to hasten it.
4. PCs can be broken when doing required cleaning, esp. in dusty environments.

To do a water-cooled system, use a WC or external PS, cool the CPU, Northbridge, graphics card(s), and HDs (you are probably not WCing a dog slow system, so you better have a fast, hot HD). If you are using HP RAM (few do), then cool it (that RAM likely costs more than the whole WC parts pile).

It is not a worry about leaking systems, if you assemble & take care of them properly.

All that said, I actually don't recommend WC for most gamers, for several reasons:

1. Most don't have $300-$400 to spare.
2. If #1 were true, then upgrading to the FX-57 or top flite video card would be a better choice.
3. The WC system is heavy/bulky, and a pain to move. Many times, the WC unit is separate from case... or else it is a custom, heavy case.
4. WC systems do require a certain amount of extra care when working on them.
5. If you are inexperienced, removing heatsinks from the Northbridge and Graphics Cards can be hazardous to the health of the hardware!
6. Upgrades and system parts swaps are more difficult in many cases (no pun intended ).

BTW, with the right air cooler, you can OC as much as most water systems... depending on ambient conditions. Its just a matter of thermodynamics, heat transfer in particular (water mass rate, specific heat). I guess I should admit to getting a C in Dr. Lou's Heat Transfer engineering class, though .

EDIT: Typos.